Choosing foundation can be a very tricky thing. Not only do you have to consider what coverage you want, but also try to find the perfect shade, which may be easier said than done. An incorrectly matched foundation will be very apparent when worn, and will “ruin” a look no matter how amazing everything else looks. Hopefully the following information will make it easier for you to choose a foundation!
What’s the purpose of foundation?
Foundation (along with concealer) are used to create an image of flawless skin. Not everyone has perfect skin, and for those that do, you probably will not need foundation very often, or even at all. There are many different types of foundation, and some are suited for specific skin types.
Liquid, Creme, or Powder?
First, you have to assess your skin type. Do you have normal, oily, dry, or combo skin? Each type of foundation works better for certain skin types, so knowing your skin type is one step closer to finding the right foundation for you.
Liquid – Liquid foundation is suitable for all skin types. Available in a variety of coverage (sheer to heavy), it’s the most popular and widely used foundation. Tinted moisturizers are also available, which is a sheer liquid foundation combined with moisturizer. You can also sheer out the coverage of heavier liquids by mixing it with tinted moisturizer.
Application: Sponge, foundation brush, or even fingers (if you’re in a pinch). Dot your face with the foundation, and then blend out DOWNWARDS with your chosen applicator. The reason why you want to blend downwards is because if you go against the growth of the tiny hairs on your face, it’ll show.
Examples: MAC Studio Fix Fluid, MAC Select SPF 15, Chanel TI, Armani LSF
Creme – Creme foundation offers the heaviest coverage, and comes in stick and compact form. Due to its creme and moisturizing nature, creme foundation is good for dry skin. Oily skin should stay away from creme foundation as the oils in the skin can mix with the foundation and cause it to oxidize (turn darker/orange).
Application: Sponge or foundation brush. Swipe the applicator in the foundation, then apply to face.
Example: MAC Studio Tech, MAC Full Coverage, Benefit Play Sticks
Powder – Recommended for oily or combo skin, powder foundation absorbs oil. You have to be careful with powder foundation because if you do not let your moisturizer/primer dry before applying the powder, you’ll get darker patches due to the powder sticking with the wetness of the moisturizer. So make sure to let your moisturizer dry properly before applying foundation. There are also creme-to-powder foundations available – they look/feel like creme, and dry to a powdery finish. Powder is very easy to apply, hence why some people prefer it.
Application: Powder brush, or foundation brush. A powder brush will look more natural as it will distribute the powder or evenly, and the foundation brush will give a heavier coverage.
Example: MAC Studio Fix, mineral makeup, Clinique Perfectly Real.
All types of foundation with the exception of powder, can be set with a powder on top to prolong wear. Although most foundations come with an SPF factor, it’s ideal to wear sunscreen underneath if you plan to be outdoors for a prolonged period of time.
Color Selection
One of the hardest part of picking a foundation is color matching. If you’ve ever tried EM’s sample kits, you’ll understand how frustrating it is to find a matching color. The best (and easiest) thing to do is to go to a makeup counter in a department store and get the MA to find a match for you (it is, after all, their job). I have yellow undertones that make it hard to find a match in traditional high-end makeup brands (e.g. Lancome, Estee Lauder etc.), so I usually venture to brands like Shisedo, or Shu. I do like MAC because they have such a wide variety of colors that it’s often hard not to find a match.
General tips:
1. Understand the undertones of your skin! If you have yellow undertones and pick a foundation with pink undertones, you will see the mismatch as soon as you put it on.
2. Since no one has perfect and even skintone, the place to match your foundation is on your cheeks and out towards your jawline.
3. Pick 3 shades: one that you think you are, one lighter, and one darker shade. Apply those in a stripe on your cheek next to each other, and let it sink in for a few minutes. Once it’s sunk in, you can start to see what looks too dark, too yellow/pink, or just right.
4. Take a look at yourself in natural lighting, or photos without flash. The SPF factor in foundations will make your face look whiter in reaction to the flash.
Skin Tones
WARM
- Your skin has yellow undertones
- You look better in ivory than white
- You tan well, and does not usually burn
- Your veins have a greenish tint
- You look better in gold jewelry
COOL
- You have pink undertones
- You don’t really tan, and burn under the sun
- You look better in silvery jewelry
- Your veins have a bluish tint
- You look better in white instead of ivory
NEUTRAL
- You don’t fit into warm or cool category
- You have soft beige undertones with either yellow or pink (not very prominent)
- You may look good in both gold/silvery jewelry, as well as white/ivory
Problem Skin
Those with problem skin may be tempted to use a full face of foundation to cover the problem areas. The best choice is to actually let your skin breathe by using foundation only when you need it (with the exception of mineral makeup). Using foundation covers your pores, which makes it hard for your skin to breathe. However, if foundation is necessary, try something that is water-based. The downside with water-based foundations is that they do not last very long, but applying a layer of powder over them will cause it to last longer. Make sure to find products labeled as “noncomedogenic”, as they do not clog your pores and will not worsen your skin condition. As a tip, anything labeled as “oil free” or “oil controlling” will usually be water based.
Makeupalley is a great resource for finding color matches in different brands, as well as this wonderful website. Department stores (and some drugstores) have a great return policy for mismatched shades, so use that to your advantage in trying to pick out a color. If it initially works great but then looks bad after a few days, go back and exchange it for a different color.
